Winter Is Settling In

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So, winter is finally arriving in various places. (Not where I'm at right now!) Camping season has largely ended and hiking season assumes, well, a different shape.

Alaskan winters are very harsh, especially inland. But early enough (or late enough) in the season you can get a sense of what it's like to spend the winter there. 

They all are trying to catch a bit more to eat before it's all covered in snow. From elk to the Grizzly bears.

Only some seem to be really happy, pointing with pride at their newly minted winter home!

Further to the south and east, at Glacier National Park, winter is as notable and felt, with the combination of lakes and mountains very striking in early winter.

Still, it seems as if Mother Nature likes hikers so much, she keeps the trails open!

This way, with snow beginning its long hold over the country, everyone seems to be content with it - from mammals, 

to me!

Read my post Black (and White) Magic In The Arctic

Ooh I Miss The Alaskan Spring

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God it's hot! But I found a solution for that! I spend most of my days sitting in an ice bath, looking at pictures of Alaskan spring on my tablet. Try it - It works!

Ready? Are y'all in the bathtub? In this post, we'll look at some wildlife pictures from my last trip to Denali Nat'l Park in May. Spring is a great time to visit Alaska in general and Denali in particular, especially if you hate people and love wildlife - You see very few of those and lots of these!

Take these Caribou for example - They've just emerged from a harsh winter and are so happy to be grazing again:

Let me absorb the view of the snow for one more second.

The Alaskan Ptarmigan spends the winter with its feathers completely white. It's cold, there's no romance in the air, and so the top priority is hiding from predators. But come spring, it's mating time baby, and so the Ptarmigan grows a set of very nice covers. I'll let you decide who's the male and who's the female here.

(Hint: in terms of dressing up, humans are different from most other animals)

Watching a Grizzly bear walking the valley not far from you is always a powerful picture. And when there's still some snow on the ground, somehow that adds to the sense of the environment which is home for the Grizzly.

Ever heard of Dall Sheep? These are unique to Alaska,  and in particular to Denali. In fact, that national park was originally created to protect the Dall Sheep! Like mountain goats, they like the steepest slopes where they're protected and enjoy a great view:

Like Dall sheep, I like the steepest slopes where I'm completely unprotected, but enjoy a great view.

Sure - Smile at that. See you putting your camera on a rock, running up a snowy path, turning around and even trying to smile - All these within less than ten seconds, and for what - a selfie???

Read my post Alaska - A Summer Vacation for Ordinary People

Sprintgtime In Denali Park, Alaska

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I say "springtime", you think "blue sky and some snowy mountains."

Well, that's part of the picture. It's hard to believe it's already a month since I visited Denali National Park during the "shoulder season" of Spring. It's harder to believe how different that was from my previous trips there, mostly done in Summer and Fall.

As I wrote in my last post Put Your Head On My Shoulder Season, this post will be short on words (well, at least considering my tendency to expand on the words side of things), and long on photos. 

Denali is a huge park, with one 92 mile-long road that is typically open only for Park Service shuttles, but during the early Spring, when the shuttles aren't running, you can drive your own car for about 30 miles. And of course - There are hardly any people in the park or on the road, and it's basically you and nature much of the time. Add to it the tendency of snow to fall when it's cold, and you get views like these:

 












Denali is waking up! While well equipped to deal with the harsh winter, when temperatures easily drop to -40, everyone is happy when it's warm (30F/-1C) and there's again some green on the ground. Look at one happy bunny, which has just turned from its white coat to its summery attire:

Did you know that in Denali, the bunny community has a cycle of 11 years? And that this cycle is a great example of food chains? This is how it works: the Snowshoe Hare (the official name of this cute bunny) thrives on  the leaves of the willow trees. They eat tons of them! The problem is - the caribou (pictured above), also use the willow tree leaves as their major source of food. So tens of thousands of bunnies eat the willow, and leave little to the caribou who in tern dwindle in population because of poor diet. 

But - The caribou is the main source of food for the wolf. So the wolves get hungry - and turn to eating the bunnies instead. Then there are fewer bunnies, more willow trees for the caribou, a greater number of caribou and the bunny population recovers because the wolves are not interested in them anymore. And this whole cycle takes 11 years.

Doesn't seem this guy cares about that, though!

 
















Yeah, the ground squirrel is more concerned about a Grizzly bear chasing it for fun and digging it out of its hole in the ground.

Speaking of bears, springtime is also a great season to hike if you don't mind some snow. In return, you get great views, crystal-clear air, and some slippery slopes.

I mean it when I say "slippery slopes!" Can you imagine how hard it is to place your camera on a rock, push the timer button, run fast but carefully on the snow and ice, turn around, and smile, and all in ten seconds? Ha.

The good thing about hiking is that you can see some tame wildlife not too far!

Oh, sorry! did I say "tame"? I meant the Doll Sheep, of course!

So as you see, springtime is fun in Alaska, and you can literally enjoy the best of both words, snow and sun!

Read my post Eye To Eye for more nice pictures

Hey Pretty Face!

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For the holiday season, we all want to be happy. And what's a better way to feel jolly than to see a bunch of pretty faces? And all which I personally photographed?

Now, don't take this lightly - I can't be happy when it's 10 below outside! Can you? Apparently, Antarctic Seals couldn't care less. On the contrary - They love some ice on their pretty nose:

Or perhaps they just like to pose for the camera? This penguin, I think, certainly posed for me!

Penguins are extremely cute in general. It is scientifically believed that their cuteness is inversely correlated with their smartness. Watch the following video, where a visibly preoccupied (with its own prettiness) penguin is checking me out in windy and snowy conditions: (Ignore the logo, it's the conversion software I use for free because I'm cheap)

Of course, not all creatures make a happy face all the time! Some, you'll have to admit, may look a bit - well - stupid. I mean, it's not that I have a strong opinion about Alaskan Mountain Goats, but put a leaf in her mouth and let her pose... You know what I mean?

Not to mention the angry Bison! How do I know it's angry? Enlarge the photo and have a look at his eye! Well, maybe it's just got an attitude.

And finally, the Pretty Face Competition! Today, we're presenting two finalists. Both are at the top of their own food chain. Both are at the Arctic. And both have gladly posed for this important contest. Meet Tim, a fellow traveler, and Am I Pretty Or What?, whom I encountered on a recent trip. Cast your votes!

To see more closeups, read my post Eye to Eye 

Give Me Love! (Or at least a bear hug)

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Is everybody looking for love? Some people, when seeing the picture above, think the bear was just curious; others think it was hungry. I say - When you're out and freezing, about to walk on sea ice for six months on your own - You're looking for love. Or at least a bear hug.

What's a bear hug anyway?

That depends on whom you're asking. A language observer, probably a woman, defines it as "a strong, hearty embrace, typically between two men;" a Wall Street hotshot defines it as "an unsolicited takeover bid which is so generous that the target is unlikely to refuse;" a collegiate sports fanatic: "a grappling clinch hold... the hands are locked around the opponent and the opponent is held tightly to the chest." Hmm... And the Geek Version? "a literal bear hug is an undesirable phenomenon in which a bear, able to stand upright, claws rapidly with a hugging position."

Duh.

All the above definitions are taken from Wikipedia , which I guess is reliable because so many people contribute to it, although some say it's too liberal at letting definitions in.

One thing for sure - that little bear up there really wants an affectionate hug, and it shows it!

Bears certainly hug for a variety of purposes. What may look like a fight to the naked eye can be a game of affection for a couple of healthy, bored Polar bears. In the following photo, one could think "isn't that bear forcing itself on the other one, kind of a rough kiss?"

Would sure look like that if these were college bears! But a minute later, the other bear seems to show affection:

And the one on the left seems what - Shy? Just click to enlarge and judge for yourself! Hard to say that about a predator at the top of the food chain, but that's what it looks to me!

In truth, this is all probably a practice in fighting, and some exercise to get those old muscles going. Sometimes, it's training of a young cub by a loving mother-bear. Here, she's challenging him to mimic a fight, but shows him there's a limit to his excitement:

"You just stay there and don't get any closer, son!"

A bear hug can also take the form of a dance, where two giant, 800 pound (200 kilo) predators are measuring each other.

"I guess we'll just stay friends. Give my five!"

Read my post Yogi Polar Bear to see more funny pictures of the giants of the Arctic!

Highest or Tallest?

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Would you rather climb the highest mountain, or the tallest one?

Perhaps you don't know the answer, but certainly the crowd wisdom calls for the highest one - Mt. Everest. With its peak at 29,035 feet (8,850 meter), Mt. Everest has been the prime target for mountain climbers, professional and novice alike.

But, let me argue here that the Real Thing is Mt. McKinley in Alaska.  True, Mt. McKinley's peak is not the highest above sea level, at 20,320 feet (6,194 meters). But hey - it's not like you jump off a boat at the sea and start climbing! What matters in mountain climbing (for those who seek the achievement of-course) is the vertical rise - from the base of the mountain to its peak. Mt. McKinley has a vertical relief of 18,000 feet, climbing above a 2,000 feet high plateau, while Mt. Everest's vertical relief is only 17,000 feet (what can I say - they planted it at a high place).

I have fulfilled my official obligation now, to call this mountain Mt. Mckinley. Locals, including the Alaska State Government, call it the native Athabascan name: Denali - "The High One" - While the Federal government insists on calling it McKinley - its old official name. No wonder Alaskans hate Big Government - and click to look what that brought us!  Ahh.

Denali sits on top of Denali National Park. The mountain is so big that it creates its own climate, so it could be warm and sunny throughout the huge park, and cloudy, cold with snow showers on the mountain. Because it's far north and has low barometric pressure, it has much less oxygen than other prominent mountains, and as a result acclimation for those who climb it is much longer. The average climb time on Denali is three weeks! And only about 50% of those attempting to reach the summit make it.

Happy Birthday, Denali! This past summer it's been exactly 100 years since the first official climb all the way to the top. The youngest climber has been a 12-years old kid and the older - 78. To celebrate this, this summer a full 68% of climbers made it to the top.

Now, back to us humans. The rest of us can enjoy the views of Denali while traveling Denali National Park. The huge park - over 6 million acres - has only one road in it, on which mostly park-ran busses travel.

But, a better way to explore the park, its vistas, vegetation, and wildlife is by foot. Here I am demonstrating that even ordinary people can do that:

Not convinced yet? Here's my son, 14 years old, demonstrating that anyone can disconnect from Facebook and Instagram and do that! (Yeah, we asked the huge Grizzly bears to stay out of the picture)

(my photo is courtesy of him, of course)

While hiking Denali, you can look not only for wildlife (see my recent post), but also learn of glacial activity. The mountains of Denali are covered by glaciers, and during the summer some of the ice melts, and glacial streams carry with them rocks that have been pressurized to dust under the enormous weight of the glaciers. These streams look dirty! And of-course, no fish can survive in them because it would get Asthma in a millisecond!  Here's a photo of a glacial stream meeting a freshwater stream, to demonstrate this:

For the real adventurer in you, there's an alternative way to travel the park:

After all, the Denali Park Road is only 91 miles long so it's not a big deal. Yes, you can bump into the occasional Grizzly Bear or Moose who decide to check you out, and then you have to pedal really, really fast (don't do that). But on the other hand, it's a great way to cover the territory personally and explore the various parts of Denali over a few days.

BUT, and this is a big but, not only people do Alaska park hikes. The following picture is one of my all-time favorites. (obviously because I was on the right side of the camera!) I shot it at another Alaska National park, Katmai, and I call it A Walk in the Park.

Don't look back!   Read my post Arctic/Antarctic Travel - Not for Fun Seekers! to see more cool photos.

A Berry Hungry Bear

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Grizzly bear... When we hear this, most of us imagine a huge, fearsome predator roaming the land of, say, Alaska, killing and eating whatever it finds. Right? Sometimes. But often wrong.

Grizzlies, as well as their close cousins the Brown bears, are large and heavy animals who can weigh up to 1,000 pounds. They have sharp teeth and sharp nails.  And in Alaska, they hibernate during the winter, which means that they have about three to four months in the year to eat and stack up on calories. Yes, bears are predators. But the Alaska bears' meat diet consists primarily of fish. In interior Alaska, where many rivers are filled with glacial dust and have no fish in them, the Grizzlies have evolved over the years from being carnivores (meet eating) to also dine on roots, leaves, flowers, and especially berries.  That's the reason why a Grizzly has a hump - these are huge shoulder muscles adapted for digging out roots..

Like most health conscious consumers, the Grizzly bears of Denali national park in Alaska LOVE organic berries. Berries are nutritious, with lots of vitamins and minerals, and even some calories! So it's common to see a Grizzly working its way through a large field of berries, eating everything  in sight - berries, leaves, flowers, you name it. An adult bear can work through half an acre of land per day, consuming as many calories as possible to use during the winter time. (Yes - it's called fat)

Can you feed a Grizzly? Sure. Here I am, getting ready to feed one with some blueberries, custom-hand picked especially for that precious bear:

Problem is, you may want to not do that, because the bear might eat not only the berries but also your hand. 

And arm. 

And your whole body.

So do the Grizzlies of Denali hunt for prey, as well? Well, it's hard for a Grizzly to chase a caribou or a moose. These animals are too fast and have enough endurance to escape from a bear.  Now don't get me wrong - a Grizzly can accelerate to 35mph (50kph) extremely fast, so you don't  want it to come after you. We all know the pretty chewed-on joke about the two hikers in bear country, where one asks the other "so what do we do if we see a Grizzly?" "We run" says the other guy. "Run?" Asks the first guy. "You can't outrun a Grizzly bear, can you?" "No, but I can outrun you!" says the  smart**s friend.

Ha ha. Funny, right? Especially if you're the faster guy.  


So the Grizzly will often let others do its work. For example, it will watch a pack of wolves kill a caribou, then come out and kick the hell out of them to dine on the dead animal. After all, as healthy as those berries are, nothing beats the thousands of calories in a good piece of caribou!

Except for fish, of-course.

Closer to the ocean, for example on the Kenai Peninsula or on Kodiak Island, where lots of rivers have Salmon in them during the summer, the Brown bears and Grizzlies have a diet comprised primarily of fish. After all, a single Salmon may contain up to 5,000 calories! And you don't even have to run 35mph to catch them.  All you have to do (if you're a bear, that is) is stand at the top of a waterfall and wait for the fish to jump up it on their way to the source of the river, with your mouth wide open...

And do this 12 hours a day, for several weeks, for a total of hundreds of first-grade Salmon..

Read more about the poor Salmon in my post The Brown Bears of Katmai